Practical Paris :: Doing it right
Paris is a fabulous city- I needn't tell you that. Unfortunately, it also has a bad reputation in America as being a difficult city for tourists, especially if you don't speak the language. Well, I'm here to tell you that not only can you 'do' Paris without knowing the language, but you can also cast aside any negativity you've heard about Parisians and have a great time.
Like any big city, Paris offers something for everyone. Of course the art, architecture, fashion, and culture are known worldwide, and are a major draw for many visitors. Having so much fabulosity- along with so many famous landmarks- has instilled a great sense of pride in most Parisians- and it's this pride that has often been mistaken for rudeness. Well, that and their reacting to all the fat, loud Americans who come to the city and expect everyone to not only speak English but bow to their whims and customs. If you're reading this though, you likely don't fall into that camp, and needn't worry about it.
There are definitely some easy things you can do when planning and preparing for your trip that will help make it easier and more enjoyable. I've assembled a few tips and tricks to help you on your way to discovering (or re-discovering) one of the best cities in the world- and my favorite!
Getting there
Getting to Paris is easy; most major US and international carriers offer daily flights from major US cities. If you're flying from the East Coast, you can be there in about six hours, direct. During the spring and summer, Air France offers a late-night flight from Boston and NY, which puts you in Paris late morning and allows you to actually sleep overnight; we like that. I find that any major travel site comes up with about the same fares; the one that I trust when deciding when to buy tickets however, is
There are a lot of websites for planning trips to France, both mainstream and LGBT-focused. My personal favorites are and the official website for the French Tourism Office, Maison de la France. The latter has a special section for LGBT trip planning, publishes an annual gay guide to France, and offers frequent contests and giveaways as well.
Planning Your Trip
As for guidebooks, save yourself a LOT of time in the bookstore or on Amazon.com, and pick up these three: the Moleskin City Book. All are fabulous in their own right, and each serves a different purpose.
The Wallpaper* City Guide is dedicated to the best design-focused places in Paris; landmarks, hotels, restaurants, boutiques, and shopping. They also include suggestions for late-night experiences, 24-hour stopovers, and design-tours. Small, compact, and to the point, it's the be-all-end-all for true haute aficionados.
Lonely Planet's Paris Encounter guide on the other hand, is down to earth, easy-to-read, and full of great suggestions, including quite a few not found in larger guidebooks (but not so obscure or particular that you'll get lost trying to find it, or feel like a weirdo once you're there). This is a great guide to read before you go- while you're still planning your trip- because it offers a good insight into the city. It includes highlights and itineraries, as well as info on sights, shops, restaurants, etc. for each quarter or neighborhood. This book is great for those times when you find yourself walking around the city on a whim and decide you want to see some art or grab a cocktail because you can easily find something near you. The only thing it's missing? Hotels.
Being fortunate enough to have spent a considerable amount of time in Paris, the one thing I'm never without is my Moleskin City Book. The quote by Aldous Huxley says it perfectly: "For every traveller who has any taste of his own, the only useful guidebook will be the one which he himself has written." And while I wouldn't yet dispose of my other guidebooks, this one has become the one I go back to most often. Aside from great maps for the Metro, the city and neighborhoods, and a few pages of references (measurements, phone numbers, etc.), this book is largely blank. Sections are divided however, so that you can take notes, write your own directory of shops, restaurants and hotels, and jot down anything else that you'll want to remember and return to on subsequent trips. It's truly the best 'little black book' you'll ever have.
Once You Arrive
Getting Around
Sleep
There's always a new, hot "everything" in Paris. If you're looking for that type of hotel, check out , where I highlight some of the newest hotels, restaurants and shops in the city. And while I hate to call the following places "standards" (because they're anything but), they represent solid, dependable hotels where I return to when I want great style, amenities, and service without all the hoopla and fanfare that often accompanies new designer boutique hotels (not to mention the attitude often present among the staff and other guests).
Budget/Moderate :: Best Western
Before you start freaking out and thinking I'm insane for suggesting that a fabulous friend of Dorothy stay at a motel, you need to know that Best Western hotels in Europe are not the dumps that they are in the states. In fact, they're one of the most well respected chains in Europe. That being said, they also usually offer the best deals in major cities, which is the case in Paris.
The "gayest" of the many Best Westerns in Paris is the , which also happens to be in one of the best locations, just down the street from Galleries Lafayette, Printemps, and other excellent shopping opportunities. If you're on a budget but still want a great hotel with all the amenities of an American property, this is it.
Moderate :: Les Jardins du Marais
Les Jardins du Marais consists of seven historical buildings (some designed by Gustave Eiffel) from the 18th and 19th centuries, set in the heart of Paris. The hotel is nice- the public spaces are done in a contemporary Art Deco style- and the rooms are good-sized. The definite draw though is the location. If you're planning a longer stay, request a room with a kitchenette; something unusual in Paris.
Make sure to enjoy a glass of Champagne in the bar or on the terrace (pictured), taking in the design of the buildings and walkways before heading out for dinner or shopping.
More hotels next...
Moderate/High-End :: Paris Hilton Arc de Triomphe
Whenever I want the comfort of a large American style hotel room with all of the amenities and services, I head to the Hilton Arc de Triomphe. Of course, it doesn't hurt that it's literally in the perfect location (blocks away from the Louis Vuitton flagship on the Champs Elys?es), and that the service is always impeccable.
True, when you're in your room you might not feel like you're staying in the heart of Paris, but trust me, it's still very French, and for most of us, after a long day of walking on cobblestones in adorable alleys while trying to remember your French from high school and not look like a stupid American, it can be nice to come home each night to a more familiar setting.
The hotel offers everything you'd expect from a Hilton: good design, comfort, excellent service, and a great breakfast.
Luxury :: Four Seasons George V
For those looking for the ultimate in classic luxury- and who can afford to indulge every once in a while- the Four Seasons George V is a splurge that I truly believe every gay man needs to take advantage of at least once in his life. The setting is grand, the service impeccable, and the memories will last a lifetime... or at least until you get the chance to return.
If you're looking for a special place to "pop the question" (they welcome same-sex couples with open arms), nothing beats the George V. If you want it to be even more special, I'll let you in on a secret known only by a select few: you can speak with the concierge about arranging a bottle of Champagne for the special moment in the hotel's incredible wine cave. After all, sipping bubbly among some of the oldest and most important wines in Paris, how could anyone say no?
What to do?
Now that I've gotten you there and settled it, my job's done! For fabulous ideas on what to do, start reading your guide books and check out these other features on my favorite city in the world!
Paris, Je t'Aime
A version of this feature appeared on the EDGE Media Network in early 2008.
Twitter :: JasonSalz
Jason Salzenstein is a writer and editor; design, image, and marketing consultant; and professional shopper. His work has appeared in numerous national and international publications and he has clients around the world. For more information :: www.JasonSalzenstein.com
