November 9, 2023
The Southern California Hairstylists that Have Become Leaders Against Transphobia
Christopher Ehlers READ TIME: 7 MIN.
At a time when the rights of LGBTQ+, nonbinary, trans, and gender-nonconforming people are on the chopping block across the country, many hairstylists across Southern California are doubling down on their support of these marginalized communities.
In a recent article published by The San Bernadino Sun, journalist Victoria Ivie explores in great detail how these SoCal stylists are leading the way and showing their support for those in the queer and transgender community by helping them look and feel their best.
LuJuana Woods is one such stylist who has been in the business for two decades, and supporting the queer and transgender community by helping to make them look and feel their best has long been of interest to her.
"It makes a difference in how people feel, how they look at themselves," she said. "We're a huge community, so why not do something for somebody else?"
Woods, who isn't a member of the LGBTQ+ community herself, isn't alone. In fact, many Southern California stylists and salons are stepping up to the plate, and this allyship comes at a critical time when gender-affirming care is on the chopping block nationwide.
According to the Human Rights Campaign, and reported on by The Sun, this year alone has seen at least 17 states passing laws to restrict or ban such care, in addition to limiting the rights of queer people. Shockingly, more than 70 anti-LGBTQ+ laws were passed this year.
Last month, the second annual Queer Cuts was held at Cal State University, an event where local stylists show up to offer free gender-affirming haircare for college students in a safe space. Woods, who runs the BeUti 4 Ashes salon in Loma Linda, participated in the event.
"I always say, 'We always start with the crown'," Woods told The Sun. "So you start with your hair and if your hair looks good and feels good to you, everything else will fall in place."
Queer Cuts was founded in 2022 by Lee Stovall, coordinator of the Queer and Transgender Resource Center at Cal State San Bernadino. The goal, according to Stovall (who uses she/they pronouns), is to provide "a space where [students] can come and get essential services in a space that feels gender-affirming."
Although the term "gender-affirming care" often brings to mind things like hormones or top or bottom surgery, Stovall says that something as simple as a haircut and some clothing can help people feel more like themselves, and is an option for those who are still exploring and aren't quite ready for surgery.
32 students participated in this year's Queer Cuts. Of those students, 23 identified as trans, nonbinary, or gender nonconforming. They all received hair services, and reported that "they felt both valued and seen." The Sun noted that one of the goals of Queer Cuts is to "eliminate financial, psychological, and emotional barriers" while ensuring comfort and safety – two things ultra-important for young people, according to Stovall. "It's a scary time to be queer and trans right now," Stovall added.
California Governor Gavin Newson, in response to the swell in anti-LGBTQ+ legislation around the country, endorsed several laws aimed at protecting LGBTQ+ students and their privacy, including AB 233, the Transgender Youth Privacy Act, which seals the records of minors seeking to legally change their gender or sex identification. He also signed SB 345, a law that "protects insurance providers against the enforcement of other states' laws that criminalize or limit reproductive health care services or gender-affirming health care." There's also a brand-new Commission in L.A. County tasked with expanding gender-affirming care and programming.
Brenna McCarthy, a stylist at Studio Cru in Orange, told The Sun that she "has always made it a goal to provide a safe, open space for queer, trans, and gender-nonconforming clientele" – not an easy task, she said.
"People are looking for specific queer stylists within Orange County, and there's not a lot of space for that," McCarthy said. "The biggest thing I love about my job is being able to help people match their outside appearance with the way that they feel on the inside."
"McCarthy said she's often one of the first – and sometimes only – stylists to ask clients their pronouns, an effort to normalize using gender-neutral language and avoid assumptions," The Sun reported.
Speaking about programs like Queer Cuts or about inclusive hair salons, McCarthy told the newspaper that "people come to you because this is the safest spot that they can be in. They're being so vulnerable with you and trusting you with their appearance."
Bec Farrell, who uses they and them pronouns and works at Gray Area in Riverside, likewise pointed out that some barber shop-like environments "can be very intimidating and toxic for queer people," emphasizing that working at an inclusive and accepting salon is a vital part of providing a safe space for people. Farrell opined that a good haircut session can be akin to therapy.
"Hair holds trauma, in my opinion," they said. "Anytime I felt like I needed to start anew, I've shaved my head and that helps me embrace a new chapter in life. I wanted to really break the binary in hair, because hair doesn't have a gender."
Jessie Santiago, 40, is another longtime SoCal stylist. Salon Benders, the Long Beach salon that she owns, has been the target of vandalism; hate mail has been sent there; and Santiago has personally "experienced incidents of homophobia, racism and transphobia," the article said.
"For the past five years, we have been infiltrated by a ton of hate," Santiago told The Sun. "I've had restraining orders put out against people. I've had to basically keep my doors locked during business hours at all times. It's just gotten to the point that I just don't feel safe anymore."
Santiago, who identifies as queer and has a trans partner, says that she created Salon Benders to provide a safe and "revolutionary" space for queer, trans, and gender-nonconforming people. Sadly, she had to shutter Salon Benders last month due to security reasons, an illustration of just how frightening things are right now for trans and gender-nonconforming people. Next, she'll be opening a private salon called Benders Collective Art Studio and would like to launch a podcast that will feature stories and experiences from clients while they get their hair done.
While Santiago prioritized gender-affirming haircuts at Salon Benders, she also had a novel approach to how she approached such clients: A "trauma-informed" consultation approach created with a licensed trauma therapist.
"It involves understanding the person holistically, not just hair," she said. "It has to do with understanding what their gender identity is, and how we could help support that through their hair and wellness. It's not just asking clients for a photo of what they want."
"Providing affirmation as a person is so incredibly important, especially to younger folks, because they need to see themselves reflected in this world," Santiago added. "For us, it was just really important to create more representation, more reflection of our community out in the world."
According to The Sun, the following Southern California salmons provide gender-affirming haircare and services: